Safety, Conventional Wisdom and Rain Wear in the Summer

Progress is frequently made when someone challenges common assumptions that we may not even realize are in place. Our eyes are suddenly opened to something new, and that new thing can quickly become the norm. We often wonder, how did we live like that?  A new approach can seem so obvious in retrospect.  

Let's take hiking boots as an example. I remember very clearly as an eager teenage boy, listening to a guide tell me that I needed very heavy lug soled boots when I first started to hike and climb. He was of german descent, and said that heavy boots were "traveling by Mercedes",  while lighter boots were "Volkswagens". That seems funny today, as so many people hike exclusively in running shoes on even the toughest off trail talus.  For me, boots have their place only in winter, and even then only when crampons and steep snow and ice are a serious obstacle. 

But conventional wisdom is also often reinforced. Many people have boldly set out to challenge some nugget of wisdom only to learn that maybe the wisdom was in place for good reason. There's only one way to find out if your idea falls into the "new breakthrough" category or the "dumb idea" category.  

As I've been planning some challenging hikes this summer, I'm re-thinking some assumptions. I've already written that I am planning to go stoveless, but I don't consider that very bold or significant. It's simpler to go without a stove, but it poses no real risk to my safety or success. 

Rain gear is another story. Nearly everyone lists it as a must have item in the mountains. Actually, I wouldn't say "nearly everyone" lists rain gear as a must have item. In actual fact, it is everyone. Every. Single. Gear. List. Ever. Made. Do I really need a waterproof jacket in the Sierra, in summertime? Let's think about it.  

Summer rain in the Sierra is almost always in the form of short thunderstorms. These can be violent, cold and wet, and I've seen snow in July and August. But those are the exceptions. I will have a waterproof tarp, a dry sleeping bag, and dry clothes at all times. Do I need another waterproof layer? I will have a synthetic vest and a synthetic top with a hood (Patagonia R1 Hoody). These will keep me warmish, even if I'm soaked, especially if I am walking.  In light storms, I might get a little wet. Why take two pieces of gear that do the same thing? If I get very wet and cold, I'll stop, set up my shelter and get in my bag. I'll be warm in a few minutes. I'll wait for the weather to pass, then I'll pack up and keep walking. If it stays really bad for a long time, I'll simply stay under my shelter.

On the Sierra High Route this summer I plan to be walking all the time. There will be no relaxing time in camp. I'll be walking, eating or sleeping. That changes the nature of what I need to carry. I only need gear to keep me warm while walking, which is relatively little compared to what's needed when lounging around camp. So I will also drop the puffy down jacket I bring on most trips.  

I've been hiking in the Sierra for over thirty years. Looking back, the number of times I have needed rain gear to stay safe is exactly zero. None. Never. It's kept me warm and dry many times - but I didn't need it to stay safe. I have always had other options I could use to get warm and dry. If things get bad, it is very possible I might regret this choice. But I don't see a plausible situation where it could put me in any jeopardy. I'll be very aware of what I am carrying (and more importantly, not carrying), and I will act accordingly. I don't advocate that this is the right approach for everyone. Not at all. But for this trip, for me and my goals this summer, I'm dropping the jacket.   

I will let you know if this turns out to be in the "dumb idea" category.   

Mount Wrightson, Santa Rita Mountains

---

Southern Arizona is blessed with diversity; high mountains, lush deserts, grasslands,  multiple cultures, and incredible biological diversity. Even the occasional jaguar is still sighted every year or so, usually a male roaming up from Mexico, sadly in search of new mates that don't exist.   

Several small mountain ranges dot the southeastern corner or Arizona. They are high enough and cool enough to contain lush pine forests, while surrounded by desert and grasslands. These isolated patches of cool forest are commonly called "sky islands", a perfectly descriptive name. 

One of those islands is the Santa Rita mountains, located about 35 miles south of Tucson, and about 25 miles north of the Mexican border. This range is capped by Mount Wrightson, 9453 feet.    

Hiking Mount Wrightson is a great escape from the desert heat, and can be one of the best workouts in Arizona. It's just over 4000 vertical feet from the Madera Canyon trailhead to the summit, and it can be covered in 5.4 miles if you use the Old Baldy Trail.  You can also use the Super Trail, which gets to the summit in a less steep 8 miles. These two trail cross at Josephine Saddle, at 7000 feet, allowing you a chance to mix and match the trails to your liking.   

On a recent trip with my daughter Megan, we made a short film of our hike, called Contrast.  On that trip we were lucky to see a White Nosed Coati scamper along the hiilside as we prepared dinner at Baldy Saddle.  In many years of hiking in southern Arizona, I've seen Coatis only twice - on this trip and once on Baboquivari.  You are likely to see numerous bird watchers on the lower portions of any of these trails.  Madera Canyon is a world famous birding spot, and home to the Elegant Trogon, a gorgeous bird which I have seen on the lower slopes below Josephine Saddle.  

I prefer to use the Old Baldy Trail because it is less exposed to the sun, and stays on the moist north facing slopes most of the way. And because I like the steep and fast ascent.    

Though usually done as a day hike, Mount Wrightson is also perfect for a one night backpacking trip.  You can hike to upper Baldy Saddle at 8700 feet and camp at one of several decent campsites. From there you can climb to the summit at sunset, or the next morning at sunrise.  Either is a great choice.  Hiking from the upper saddle to the summit is about a 30 to 45 minute hike, covering the final 750 vertical feet. In winter this last portion of the climb can harbor a surprisingly large amount of snow, and some steep sections can also be very icy.  Be careful.     

Though there is frequently water at Bellows Springs on the Old Baldy Trail, one mile below the upper saddle, don't count on it. Carry all the water you need, whether on a day hike or overnight trip.  

The trailhead is located at the road's end in Madera Canyon, at 5420 feet. There is a large parking lot at the trailhead.  The Old Baldy trail exits at the upper right of the parking lot, while the Super Trail exits at the upper left. There are signs in the lot if you if have any questions about the trails. You will need a Coronado National Forest user permit to park.  You can pay in a slot at the parking lot ($5 for one day) or get an annual permit at one of many locations in Tucson.  

The two main trails up Mount Wrightson are shown here; the Old Baldy Trail in red and the Super Trail in blue.  The two trails cross at Josephine Saddle, and then join at Baldy Saddle.  Above Josephine Saddle, the Super Trail  gradually climbs around the south side of the peak, while the Old Baldy trail climbs steeply up the north side.  There is one trail for the final climb from Baldy Saddle to the summit (shown in red). 

Mount Wrightson is a 4000 foot vertical climb from the trailhead, which can be covered in in 5 trail miles, or a more mild 8 miles, depending on the trail used.   

Lengthening shadows spread across Arizona as sunset approaches on the summit of Mount Wrightson.  

The summit of Mount Wrightson offers an expansive view of the many mountain ranges of southern Arizona and Northern Sonora, Mexico.  This view looks north, with the Rincon Mountains in the distance on the left of the photo. 

For short trips, with predictable Arizona weather, we normally forego the tent and enjoy the stars. This camp is at upper Baldy Saddle, at about 8700 feet.  Upper Baldy Saddle has several good campsites, but can be windy.  

Southern Arizona is well known for its clear night skies and good night time star gazing.  Here Orion and a crescent moon set in the west, soon after sunset.  

Sunset from Baldy Saddle

With my daughter Megan on the lower slopes after an overnight trip.  

Humphreys Peak - Hiking the Arizona High Point

At 12,633 feet Humphreys Peak is not only the highest point in Arizona, it is also gives the hiker a great look at a volcanic caldera that stands alone amidst the high plateau of northern Arizona.  Most hikers start at a trailhead adjacent to the Arizona Snowbowl, a ski area 11 miles north of Flagstaff. The trailhead is located at 9330 feet, on the left side of the road, just below the main parking for the ski area.  

The trail up to the summit is 4.8 miles and climbs 3303 vertical feet to the summit. After crossing through the ski area the trail disappears into dense coniferous forest and steadily switchbacks up the west side of the peak. You pass through some large stands of aspens, eventually climbing to thin stands of trees as you approach the ridge of the caldera at 11800 feet. The saddle is 3.8 miles from the trailhead and offers a sudden beautiful view to the east and down into the moist, aspen filled inner basin. Here the trail forks, with one trail heading to the summit, and another heading lower into the basin. You will turn left (north) and continue up through the only expanse of alpine tundra in the state of Arizona. The exposed summit ridge is notorious for high winds and is not the place to be in a thunderstorm.  If it is cloudy or threatening, turn around and come back another day.  

The summit of Humphreys Peak has a grand view.  On a clear day you can see the Painted Desert to the east, endless expanse of Ponderosa forest to the south, and thinly forested plateaus the lead north and west to the Grand Canyon.  All around you is evidence of the volcanic history of the San Francisco Peaks. The main crater lies southeast of the summit and is surrounded by a ring of lower peaks. Multiple eruptions between 2.5 million and 400,000 years ago created the peaks we see today. 

We reached the saddle after 2 hours of hiking, and took a short rest. From the saddle, the trail quickly becomes steep, rocky and exposed. At times it walks directly on the summit ridge, but generally it stays slightly west of the right before crossing to the east side just below the summit. It is a vigorous and rocky mile from the saddle to the summit.  I've heard numerous stories of horrific winds along this ridge.  When I've been there it has always been windy, but never unmanageably so. There are numerous wind breaks built at the summit which make it easy hide from the wind. If it is 75 degrees in Flagstaff, expect to be wearing jackets and gloves near the summit.  

On this hike we spent a lazy hour on the summit absorbing the sun and the view. The hike down is steep and fast.  We arrived at the car in less than 6 hours round trip. A great way to do this hike is to get up very early, timing your arrival at the saddle with sunrise.  Then hike along the ridge to the summit as the sun warms up the air, eating a hearty breakfast on the summit, facing the warm sun of the new day.  

The first three miles of the hike zig zag through dense forest. In the early season (until mid-June) the upper part (from 10500' to 11200') of this forested slope can hold a lot of snow.  Be prepared.  Above 11200' the trail is more exposed and usually holds considerably less snow.   

Kendrick Mountain (10400') as seen from a massive talus field on Humphreys Peak. Kendrick Mountain is another great local hike.  

The summit ridge of Humphreys Peak, taken from the saddle at 11,800 feet.  The hike from the saddle to the summit is rocky and sometimes steep.  The ridge is exposed to strong westerly winds, which can sometimes be an adventure. Even in summer, come prepared with warm clothes and gloves.  

Karen climbing a snowfield just below the summit.  Agassiz Peak, Arizona's second highest peak at 12,356 feet, can be seen to the right.    

Map of the route up Humphreys Peak. Note that the trail locations are approximate only.