Frogland is a classic moderate route in spectacular Black Velvet Canyon. As advertised, it has quality climbing, lots of diversity, and decent exposure. You get thin face climbing, lots of good finger and hand cracks, and even a short chimney that is loads of fun. Belays are pretty good and the down climb is easy by the standards of Red Rock - about 30 minutes of scrambling takes you right back to the base of the route. With all those features, it's crowded. We climbed it on an OK day in April, and I think there were 4 or 5 parties on it that day. We got there pretty darn early, but still were second in line, and had to wait a bit for the slightly slower party above us. Highly recommended route if you don't mind sharing it with others.
It was a 700 mile drive for only a 4 day trip. In mid October, it's always a gamble to head to the high peaks. But the forecast made it clear - it wasn't a gamble. It was a virtual certainty that we would get bombed on by an early winter storm.
Our plan was to climb a couple of 14,000 foot peaks, connecting them with some trails and some cross country travel. It would be a full four day trip. We'd be lucky to make it in good weather.
From home in warm Tucson, the logical choice was to skip the whole deal. It seemed nutty to go all that way just to arrive 12 hours before the storm. But the mountains are gorgeous in October. Foul weather usually makes for a good journey, or at least a memorable one. We made the drive, excited all the way to get into the high country.
Sure enough, the weather sucked. We had no chance to complete our objectives. We wouldn't climb any of the peaks. We climbed over the crest late in the day, after hiking for 5 hours. Camped at 11500 feet, we made tea in the dark. The storm descended.
We woke to hail and lightning in the middle of the night. A constant flicker of lightning, with occassional huge flashes of white light. Big booms shook us. About 4 am, it started to snow. Big, wet flakes.
With steamy coffee in hand in the early morning, we knew we had to get back over the ridge. Get back to the trailhead while the getting was good. It was a near whiteout, and we didn't know how long it would last.
We wandered up into the storm. Up we went, and up ratcheted the storm. We lost the trail in a whiteout. It was quiet and and calm and beautiful. A touch of a stormy breeze blew flakes into our faces. We knew how to find our way, and were well prepared for the weather. We weren't concerned. At 12,300 feet, near the crest, in a world of white and gray, a ghostly Bighorn sheep floated by us as we searched for New Army Pass. He stopped to look at us, as though he was wondering what we were doing. Up he went, up and over the crest. He descended quickly to the warmer basin on the far side. We followed his prints down to a lunch of hot soup, by a lake, in the storm.
We made the right choice.
Tenaya Peak sits above cool, blue Tenaya Lake, at the west end of a long chain of peaks that guard the north side of Tuolomne Meadows, in Yosemite National Park. To the west of the peak, Tenaya Canyon drops steadily down a narrow granite gorge, eventually forming the east end of Yosemite Valley. The majestic forms of Half Dome and Cloud's Rest are seen along the south rim of this canyon. It's a perfect peak on which to spend a summer's day. Fortunately for climbers looking to climb the peak. the Northwest Buttress of the peak is a perfect 1500 foot tall chunk of granite, tilted at an angle that makes for moderate climbing on immaculate Sierra stone.
While the summit is not as spectacular as nearby Cathedral Peak, the location of the climb is arguably better, and the climbing a little bit easier and less sustained. Climbing it for the first time, in good weather, alone on the wall, is as good as it gets. The route can be popular, but on our summit day, with perfect weather, we saw only one other climber, who soloed past us as we neared the summit